Sarah Moss: Let’s put a real kitchen in every school. We could use some of the Apple taxes

I wrote last week about my Yorkshire grandmother’s wartime cookbook. I was thinking as I wrote about the ways the urgencies of war accelerated changes in British domestic life. The demand for women of all social classes to take paid work while men fought necessitated the provision of daycare for pre-school children. Technologies of war soon found peacetime uses in domestic appliances and architecture. Food technology born of crisis shaped the ultra-processed foods and ready meals that in turn shaped the sicknesses of three generations.

I was also thinking about what might have been. Because the British government thought it obvious that women who were working full time could not also be expected to cook for everyone every day, there were communal, subsidised canteens in many workplaces, of the sort t...
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